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A changelog is a page which contains a curated, chronologically ordered list of notable changes for each version of a project.
To make it easier for users and contributors to see precisely what notable changes have been made between each release (or version) of the project.
People do. Whether consumers or developers, the end users of software are human beings who care about what's in the software. When the software changes, people want to know why and how.
Added
for new features.Changed
for changes in existing functionality.Deprecated
for soon-to-be removed features.Removed
for now removed features.Fixed
for any bug fixes.Security
in case of vulnerabilities.Unreleased
section at the top to track upcoming changes.This serves two purposes:
Unreleased
section move changes into a new release version section.Exchange is an interesting and useful form of replenishing a collection. Each philatelist, for various reasons, gradually accumulates a certain number of doubles - identical copies of stamps. You can try to exchange them for missing stamps in the collection, which may be among the counterparts of another collector.
In order to participate in the exchange for TouchStamps, you must:
Log in using your account or register;
Select the menu item User / Collection;
Press the "+" button, fill out information about the collection item and indicate the sign "Change";
Or edit the existing element of the collection with the indication "Change".
You can see the list of what the collector offers for exchange in the menu item "Collectors". Also in the catalog, for each position there is information about collectors who offer this catalog item for exchange. Thus, you can find an interesting position in the catalog and see which of the collectors offers it for an exchange and try to exchange it.
The principle of exchange is that during the exchange one collector selects what he needs from the list of “Change” of another collector, and the other from the list “Change” of the first.
In this situation, it may happen that the first collector has something to take for exchange from the second collector, and the second is not interested in anything from the “Change” list of the first. Naturally, the exchange will not take place.
Previously, in one or two messages, agree in detail with the prospective exchange participant on the terms and conditions of the exchange: on the directory through which the exchange will be conducted; about calculations; about which letters, registered or valuable, to send materials to each other, etc.
If the exchange participants have resolved the basic issues, then the exchange can begin, be sure to strictly adhere to the rules of good form developed by the practice of philately. All materials must be in good condition, materials should not be sent whose quality causes even the slightest doubt. One must be meticulously accurate in settlements with a participant in the exchange, not look for benefits only for himself, but proceed from the fact that the exchange must be mutually beneficial. It’s useful to adhere to the rule: “It’s better to get less than not enough.” Only with a conscientious, accurate attitude towards the exchange will it be long, pleasant and useful. All letters without exception must be answered no later than a week later. Shipments should be well packaged to prevent damage in transit. It is useful for stamps to make cardboard boxes the size of an envelope with glued strips.
For letters, philatelists prefer unlabeled envelopes and stick on them several stamps of various low denominations, preferably one recently released series, and if the tariff requires and allows it, then the entire series or quarter block of stamps. They are placed in the upper right corner, departing from the upper and lateral sides by a centimeter. Handing over the letter in the mail, they ask him to carefully repay it - the minimum number of stamps. All letters received from each exchange participant are stored in a separate folder in order to always be able to verify calculations. When exchanging, you should remember that the exchange takes place with a hobby colleague, and this correspondence can develop into a sincere long-term friendship. Is it worth recalling that it is worthwhile to take an interest in the health, studies, hobbies, family of the exchange participant, congratulate him on his holiday and birthday, and send a philatelic souvenir.
АЛЬБОМ ДЛЯ МАРОК — альбом для хранения марок, блоков и т. п. Бывают различные виды альбомов, например рассчитанные на нескольких десятков марок каждой страны, для генеральных коллекций отдельных стран с обозначенными местами для всех марок, иллюстрированные, с репродукциями всех марок в натуральную величину, иллюстрированные для мотивных коллекций. Широко распространены альбомы с чистыми белыми или слегка тонированными листами, окаймленными рамкой. В большинстве случаев листы имеют т. н. филателистическую сетку. Наиболее популярны перманентные альбомы для марок , в которых прочные крышки обтянуты дерматином, ледерином, кожей и скрепляют альбомные листы с помощью винтов, специального кольцевого механизма или пружины. Это позволяет заменять листы и дополнять альбомы новыми. К иллюстрированным альбомам периодически выпускаются дополнительные листы.
The TouchStamps Catalog can be filtered by these properties:
The catalog also contains other properties to further describe the stamps:
Yes, you can! You can change your username in your edit account section. Note that you are limited to only 2 changes, so choose wisely! Changes of case do not count as a change, or in other words, changing from 'paulo' to 'Paulo' will not count as a change.
Once you change your username, all the links where your previous username was being shown will be updated to the new one - this includes the 'Traveling postcards' of anyone who would have to send you a postcard.
Postcrossing does not welcome multiple accounts per person. The project is designed with safety and fairness in mind and for that, certain limits have been applied to each account so that the system as a whole remains balanced. But, by having more than one account, those limits no longer apply, which means you would be going around Postcrossing's limits, which creates several problems for other members and for Postcrossing as well.
For example, we can no longer make sure that any two persons do an exchange only once; it is harder for a receiver to know which account they should register a postcard with, etc. It also creates unbalances on the address selection system which is unfair to other members.
We do understand that postcrossers are very enthusiastic about participating in Postcrossing (and we love that!) and that sometimes they would like to send and receive more postcards than what their account allows them to. And that is why the limit of postcards each account can send at the same time increases over time.
For any postcrosser wishing to exchange more postcards than the account allows, we recommend to:
We occasionally tolerate that one person holds more than one account if within a reasonable amount, and only if we see strong evidence of proper usage. But, we still do not welcome such practices and we strongly discourage anyone from doing it. We do monitor for multiple accounts and Postcrossing reserves the right to delete (without any warning), all existing accounts belonging to the same owner, when we see fit. So please, don't open more than one account.
A stamp catalog (or stamp catalogue) is a catalog of postage stamp types with descriptions and prices. The stamp catalog is an essential tool of philately and stamp collecting. Stamp catalogs are part of philatelic literature. Similar catalogs of other collectible objects. such as matchboxes (phillumeny) and postcards (deltiology), have also been issued.
The first stamp catalog was published in France by Oscar Berger-Levrault on 17 September 1861 and the first illustrated catalog by Alfred Potiquet in December 1861 (based on the earlier work).
The first catalogs in Great Britain were published in 1862 by Frederick Booty, Mount Brown, and Dr. John Edward Gray. The first in the United States was The Stamp Collector's Manual by A.C. Kline (a pseudonym for John William Kline), also 1862.
Originally catalogs were just dealers' price lists, though today that is less common. The catalogs of some major publishers continue to serve as an official price list for the publisher. For example, Stanley Gibbons in the United Kingdom specifically states in the catalog that the price listed is the estimated selling price by Stanley Gibbons Ltd. On the other had, Scott in the United States does not sell stamps. Rather, the Scott catalog serves as a reference document for expected prices used by buyers and sellers. Over time, as philately developed, catalogs tended to accumulate additional supporting details about the stamps, such as dates of issue, color variations, and so forth. As their use by collectors became widespread, the catalogs came to define what was and was not a legitimate stamp, since many collectors would avoid stamps not described in the catalog. In recent years, the Internet has become a common resource for information about stamps. Some catalogs have an on-line version while others are available only on-line.
The following catalogs have a worldwide coverage:
These are large undertakings, since there are thousands of new stamps to describe each year, and the prices of all stamps may go up or down. For publishers that are not dealers, the prices are estimated by data from dealers and auctions.
In addition, the catalog publishers usually put out specialized volumes with additional details, generally by nationality: Michel has a specialized German catalog, Scott a specialized US catalog, and so forth.
Many countries have their own "national catalogs", typically put out by a leading publisher or dealer in that country. Postal administrations may themselves put out catalogs, although they tend to be aimed at less-experienced collectors, and rarely provide fully detailed stamp data. Some notable country catalogs include:
Stamps of different denominations were printed in different colors from the beginning; like their successors, postal clerks were able to distinguish between penny black and penny blue more quickly by color than by value, a practice that generally continues today. In practice, the actual color of the stamp may vary, and although collectors will pay a high price for rare shades, it may not be easy to distinguish them from differences caused by age, light, chemicals, and other factors. Stamp colors are usually described by the name of the color rather than by some number system such as CMYK; Several color guides have been produced showing a selection of colors, but these are not particularly popular with collectors.
Almost all stamps get their color from inks printed on white or light paper; a few exceptions include early Natal issues consisting only of embossing on colored paper, some recent stamps embossed on gold foil or with a metallic tint, and Uganda Cowries are produced on a typewriter. A number of early stamps were printed in black on various colored papers; the best-known example is British Guiana 1c magenta.
Red was the UPU standard for internal letters; course 2c in the US was in effect from 1883-1917 and 1919-1932.
Initially, countries usually chose colors for names at random. In 1896, members of the Universal Postal Union agreed on green, red, and blue as the standard colors for standard printed matter, postcards, and letters, respectively, when sent overseas. This convention was gradually abandoned as inflation created too many exceptions from the 1930s onwards.
Switzerland used three colors in 1850 for its first stamps and then switched to a single color design in 1854.
Two-colour stamps ("two-colours") began to appear very early, although usually reserved for higher values due to the additional expense of multiple runs. Multi-colored stamps appeared along with the development of color printing technology; they now make up the majority of contemporary stamps, although single color designs are still common, with more in some countries than others.
Color shades have several different causes. The printer may use other inks; Previously, inks were created in batches as needed and were rarely uniform. In such cases, the tint provides information about when the stamp was made, and perhaps even identifies a particular print. Extreme variations in color errors may be considered; for example, the value 4c in the 1893 American Columbian issue was usually printed in ultramarine, but some were printed in blue, a tint with a decidedly greener one; they cost in the $10,000 range instead of the usual $10.
The ink can also be thinned or applied thinner, such as World War I stamps from Germany and World War II stamps from the United Kingdom. This can also happen by accident if the printing plate is accidentally underpainted.
UV light destroys many pigments and can cause significant lightening. In addition, some countries use water-soluble materials known as volatile ink to prevent postage stamps from being reused. Stamps of this type can be much lighter after soaking.
Some dramatic color changes result from chemical exposure; such brands are called. Examples include (often erroneously called "oxidation"), a reaction involving lead that can turn a blue or green stamp black, and exposure to salt water known to occur on New South Wales stamps recovered from ship wrecks. from. Counterfeiters have also used chemicals to try and create apparent rarities, though experts now know how to identify these attempts.
In general, collectors follow stamp catalogs in terms of color nomenclature, even if different catalogs do not agree with each other. Although the named colors are numerous, the choice used by philatelists is limited to a few dozen, complemented by adjectives such as "dark", "light", "pale", "bright" and "deep". It is also possible to combine two color names, such as "grey-green" or "brown-orange", where the first name indicates the modification direction of the second color. Thus "brown-orange" is a duller and darker orange, while "orange-brown" has a more orange tint than would be seen with "yellow-brown" or "red-brown". This system becomes less clear when extended to other colors, and few collectors can accurately describe how "carmine rose" differs from "pink carmine". Some colors, such as "lake", a shade of red that often commands a premium price, have a traditional but somewhat vague meaning that differs from the common use of "lake" for pigments and dyes.
Initially, official descriptions issued by the government simply gave a basic name such as "red" for a range of shades. In recent years, descriptions have become more accurate, such as "dark sage green", though not necessarily enlightening collectors any more than they used to.
TouchStamps, a LinkedIn service, is not just a place to share presentations, it is also a community of people who come together to share and mingle. As with any other community, there are some guidelines that outline what it means to be a member. By being a member, you agree to play by those rules, i.e., your use of the service is governed by the Terms of Use and the following guidelines.
In all of these cases if we think it's necessary we may block or ban the account responsible temporarily or permanently. If your account is blocked permanently, you are forbidden to create any new accounts on TouchStamps.
When buying or selling stamps through online auctions, responsible sellers usually provide a description of the stamps. In addition to the country, year of issue and catalog number, the state of the brand must be indicated without fail. This is important because it is not always possible to scan both sides of the stamp. And depending on the state of the adhesive side, the price of a clean brand can often change tenfold.
Therefore, over many years, including sales at face-to-face auctions or direct sales between dealers and philatelists, the terminology that is used today has developed.
For example, I will give a picture from the American magazine "Scott Stamp Monthly", describing the state of the stamp:
Used abbreviations (abbreviations) for stamp condition:
MNH (mint never hinged): clean, no damage or stickers = **
MH (mint hinged) or UH (unused-hinged): clean with damaged adhesive, sticker or sticker residue = *
MLH (mint lightly hinged): clean, slightly damaged adhesive, light sticker residue = *
MVLH (mint very lightly hinged): the same, but even less damaged, barely noticeable trace of the sticker = *
OG (original glue): native glue
o.G.: Stamp issued without glue.
Used: used, slaked
Status designations in catalogs:
✳✳ - brand without stickers and/or their traces
✳ - sticker or footprint
☉ - a circle with a dot inside - canceled (mail went through)
Filled circle - STO (stamp with courtesy cancellation made in the printing house)